High Output Alternator
In preparation for a complete rewire over the coming off-season, as well as eliminating the engine tin, I am taking a "que" from racing partners Troy Palmer, Ken Jevec, and Allen Wiess and making the conversion to a liteweight race alternator. The simplified engine bay without the sheetmetal will make maintenence much easier and the motor will be able to be cooled easier with external fans between rounds. This is obviously another step away from "Street Car" and another step toward "Race Car". Allen and I had also noticed a while ago that the motor without tin just didn't seem to retain as much heat. Without the tin, the heat dissipated quicker.
It's still street legal and nothing is being cut off. It's still all bolt-on stuff.
The first thing that we did was to make a bracket that replaces the stock alternator stand and to provide a lower mount for the new alternator.
This was milled out of a 3"X4"X1.5" block of aluminum I found at the metal yard last year.
The raised section on the right side will be drilled and tapped for the lower mount. The hole in the center will have a off-the-shelf filler neck pressed in. The bolt holes will be counterbored for allen head bolts for a clean look.
To the right is a close-up of the bracket mounted onto the engine with the alternator bolted on for positioning. A .375" spacer aligns the pulleys perfectly. The braided hose is the drain-back hose from the breather box. The fill neck is an off-the-shelf Bugpack piece that has been pressed into the bracket.
|Here's a before shot...||Here's after. The only thing left is to put the belt on, make a tensioning bracket and tidy up the wiring.|
The upside is ease of maintenence, quicker cool-downs, more efficient charging system and 20 pounds less weight. The downside is a definate loss of "Street Appeal". At least the shroud can be bolted back on in a matter of minutes.